Moda e industria: Las recetas de Nueva York

Bloomberg, el Alcalde de Nueva York, anunció el año pasado una serie de iniciativas para promover a la industria de la moda en la ciudad (Creo que fue la gente de Amo la Moda quien me pasó el link):

The six new fashion-focused initiatives include:

1. NYC Fashion Fund: The NYC Fashion fund will help emerging designers by connecting them with resources such as capital for production financing, vetted manufacturers, and other services that will help them through their first production cycle.
2. Project Pop-up: This project will start with a contest and end with winning concepts which will receive mentoring and marketing support, networking opportunities, and even help creating a pop-up shop.
3. New York City Fashion Draft: The annual New York City Fashion Draft will bring together nominated students from US and international universities in NYC for a a week of interviews with New York City-based fashion businesses.
4. Fashion Campus NYC: This program will include business seminars led by fashion executives, networking opportunities, and online information about living and working in NYC.
5. New York City Fashion Fellows: New York City Fashion Fellows will recognize 30 up-and-coming people in fashion management who will receive mentoring services and networking opportunities with industry professionals and their peers.
6. Designer as Entrepreneur: This business “boot camp,” will consist of a series of workshops led by industry experts, and will focus on items like business plan development, financial management, and e-commerce.

El listado es de lo más estimulante y nos viene bien como antecedente para el proyecto de creación de un Distrito de Diseño en el entorno del CMD que estamos redactando. Algunas de las acciones están en línea con el trabajo que venimos realizando desde nuestra Oficina de Moda, que este año profundizará el apoyo a los exportadores del sector y dará impulso a un par de proyectos muy novedosos. Me gusta el carácter "work in progress" de estas propuestas, probablemente diseñadas para ir aprendiendo sobre la marcha. Los gobiernos muchas veces le tienen miedo a la experimentación y eso redunda en un set de herramientas más bien pobre.

De todos modos, los comentarios al post original -la mayoría hechos por residentes de Nueva York, no son tan halagüeños con la iniciativa:

Finally there is just an overwhelming lack of respect for fashion design in this country. Largely to blame is the fashion industry. By promoting celebrity designers without even the most fundamental understanding of design, to intentionally blurring the lines between fast fashion and high fashion they've helped bring about the decline of American Fashion. New York and LA are the last of a huge national industry. From Dallas and Oklahoma to San Francisco and Chicago, to the textile mills in the South, it's too late. New York is destined to become a regional fashion hub just like Mumbai and Brazil and Tokio. There are tons of designers as interesting and talented as the girls at Rodarte that get absolutely no press. When I think of people like Jeremy Scott or some of the completely mediocre talents in New York fashion I am in awe of how they became such darlings.

How to save American Fashion (let alone New York Fashion) is an unbelievable chore. Game shows and magazine contests just aren't going to cut it. If New York can set up something like Beijing 798 with cooperation and buy in from retailers, the few remaining manufacturers and government legislators there might be a chance. Show people that clothing isn't just a $19.99 commodity, but a cultural expression and we all might get somewhere.

(...)

Oh, and when will American fashion design programs pair of up with the folks at MIT to develop new equipment and new materials? When will they hold apparel design students to the same academic standards as architects, industrial designers and engineers. In these days of failing natural resources people that can bridge the gap between science and beauty, mathematics and aesthetics are more important than ever. Have you seen how ugly some of the clothing experiments that come out of Silicon Valley are? These are questions no one is asking, I think.